As promised I am back today with part one of my fascinator tutorial! :)
I gave you a nseak peak yesterday but here it is again, this is the fascinator shape/type Ill be working through with you:
This is a fascinator which has a buckram (a type of stiffened woven fabric) base though many fascinators are made completely from sinamay (the more traditional light more loosely woven stiffened fabric).
So here are a list of materials you will need:
- Some card or paper
- A pen/pencil
- A few pins
- A ruler
- Some buckram or other stiffened fabric for your hat base
- Some fabric of your choice for coating and lining your hat
- A length of millinery wire (or craft/DIY may suit the purpose- you can experiment with whatever you have :)
- Thread and a needle (some beeswax to pull your thread through is optional)
- Uhu glue , Copydex glue or Bostik multipurpose craft glue. All will do the job :P
- Some decoration of your choice e.g. feathers, brooches etc.
And now here is how to begin:
1. First it is good to draft up/drape your hat pattern in paper first. This shape of hat starts with an oval, which two darts are then taken out of, one either end, to create the final shape. You can go with any size oval you like but here is the piece I cut out with the dimensions written on it so you can follow this exactly if you wish, or draft up something similar:
2. Make sure you have cut up into the 5cm at either end as these are the places you will now be overlapping to work out the size of the darts you want to create your shape:
3. Try pinning and overlapping by different amounts until you are happy with the shape- but make sure the darts are both the same size (and that the overlaps run the same- towards the back) otherwise your hat could look lopsided :P There is no set measurement for the size of the darts- just whatever you think creates a nice shape! (I found 2cm worked well for me :).
4. But whatever works well make sure to take a pencil and mark where your overlaps run until so that when you undo your pattern, you will see the two pencil lines and can add 1.5cm seam allowance- the seam allowance tapers to nothing at the point of the dart though. If this sounds confusing hopefully the following picture of the final hat pattern will clear it up for you :):
5. Use your finalised pattern (above) to cut out your buckram base for your hat:
6. You can the take this piece and overlap the darts (by the 1.5 cm seam allowance) and the oversew them down using your needle and thread:
7. Next cut a length of millinery wire long enough to go around the base of your fascinator plus a few cm overlap.
8. Then sew your wire just on the inside of your base using a blanket stitch. When you get back round to where the wire overlaps lay one end just under the other and work your blanket stitches closer together to hold the ends of the wire in place securely.
9. Your hat base should then look like this:
10. Next cut your outer fabric- you do this using the same pattern as you did for your hat base- but add 1.5cm all the way around it as seam allowance and don't cut out the sections for the darts!!! Just use tailors tacks or chalk etc.. to mark the ends and point of the darts so you know where to sew the darts!:
11. sew in the darts- on the wrong side of your fabric of course and then press them towards the back:
12. Then take your hat base and snugly fit your outer hat fabric covering over the top. It may seem a bit awkward or like it won't go at times but I assure you it will- you want a nice smooth snug fit- not bagginess! :P
13. Then take your Uhu (or other glue) and stick down your 1.5cm seam allowance all the way around the inside of your hat. Then leave it for a short while to dry of course :)
That is it for the first half of the tutorial but I will return shortly with the other half which covers decorating you hat and adding a lining and hair loops.... see you soon!
P.s. if you have any questions about any of the materials, stages or things that seem unclear I will be happy to answer or try to explain as best as I can :)